Baid Mukhallal (Pickled Eggs)

My theory on how pickling of eggs resulted, was that a chicken farmer with an overabundance of eggs tried various means to save eggs for future use, one of which was the farmer putting hard boiled eggs in vinegar.  Vinegar being an acid and hostel to bacteria, made for the perfect holding liquid but not every one liked vinegar eggs.  This means either the same farmer or  some other enterprising soul  decided to add spicing, making the eggs tastier, there for even yummier!

Pickling seems to cross many boundaries with the different regions having different spices for their pickling.   So with out further ado…I present the historic Middle Eastern pickled egg,  with out the chicken.

Baid Mukhallal

(Pickled Eggs)

Translation:

Take boiled eggs and peel and sprinkle with a little ground salt and Chinese cinnamon and dry coriander.  Then arrange them in a glass jar and pour wine vinegar on them, and put it up.

(Rodinson, pp. 397)

Ingredients:

6 hard boiled eggs        ¼ tsp salt, cinnamon, and dry coriander

Glass Jar                      Vinegar to cover

My Redaction:

This dish is very simple.  Hard boil 6-10 eggs (depending on the size of your glass container).  Water, eggs and heat for about 30 minutes.  After boiling for 30 minutes, I turn off my gas stove and let cool in the water till they are able to be handled easily, then peel.

eggs spices

The third spice next to the cinnamon and cumin is salt…a little hard to see in a white dish.  Sorry about that.

After the eggs are peeled, the recipe says to sprinkle…now sprinkling can mean a light coat or a heavier coat of spicing.  I choose to use a heavier coating of spicing for a stronger flavor that will off set the vinegar.

eggs rolled in spices

I mixed all the spices together then rolled the egg in the mixture.  Once the egg was liberally coated I place the egg into a glass jar.

jar of eggs

The amusing part was the eggs bounced slightly when dropped into the jar.  It was funny at the time! So here we have 6 eggs in a jar with spicing.  There should be just a little left over as 1/4 tsp of these 3 spices coats 6 eggs almost perfectly.  I believe there wasonly 1/8 of spicing remaining.  Put the remainder of the spicing into the jar then fill with vinegar.

I used apple cider vinegar, instead of wine vinegar.   Apples were used in a variety of dishes and I believe that if the flesh of the apple was used then juice was made.  If apple juice was made then apple vinegar was not far.  That and wine vinegar was not on hand though procurement today would be fairly easy.

Depending on the size of the jar, the size of the eggs and the number of eggs used will determine how much vinegar you will need.  Fill the jar with vinegar AFTER putting in the eggs.  Make sure the eggs are covered completely.  Covering the eggs completely lessens the chance of bacteria getting a foot hold into the boiled eggs, causing a loss of the entire batch.

A little light snack or a compliment to a spicy dish.

Jawaarish (Carrot Jam)

I have a few cups of baby carrots on hand and was going hmm….that and a real craving for some thing sweet.  Voila!  I have found this little gem of a recipe.  A period way to turn a salty veggie (in my mind carrots need to be slathered in butter and salt to be yummy) into a sweet treat.

Historically speaking carrots could be preserved by either drying or turning into jam with out loosing to much nutritionally while still retaining a vitamin and caloric necessity, but this is probably one of the sweetest ways to preserve carrots…ever.

Jaawarish

(Carrot Jam)

Translation:

It is necessary to select fresh, red carrots, to wash them, clean them and cut them as thinly as possible.  Put them in a ceramic pot, add a little bit of honey, and cover them with water.  Cook them until they are soft, then strain off the water with a sieve and add a quantity of skimmed honey equal to that of the carrots.  Mix in seasonings chosen from among pepper, ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, cubeb, spikenard, mace, galangal, aloe wood (aquilaria aqullocha), saffron and musk.  Cook to thicken the carrot jam…Pour into a glass Jar and consume as needed.

*Note: Wild carrots were considered very pungent and not particularly edible though good for medicinal purposes. (Staug, pp. 44).   In the medieval Middle East, there were many varieties, the two main being distinguished by their color, either yellow or red (some times purple) (victoryseeds).  The red were considered more edible as the yellow were woody in hardness of the main stalk.  A similar but not completely the same type of red carrot can be found in today’s farmers market marked as “heirlooms”.

Zaouali, pp. 135.

Ingredients:

2 C carrots                   1 C honey                1 pinch saffron

1/4 tsp ea of ground pepper corn, ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, mace cinnamon

1/4  tsp anise seed

My redaction:

I have a couple of choices of carrot types in the summer when the farmers markets are open, giving me the choice between either a red or even a yellow variety of carrot, and not just the ubiquitous orange type.  My choice is far more limited during the winter and due to my narrow choice in the winter when I did this recipe, I used what was on hand.

I took 2 cups of modern  day baby  carrots (or regular orange carrots if available) and sliced them in the  “matchstick” style. I did matchstick as the carrots, in period, were quartered with the inner core removed to take out the woody taste, which leads me to believe that to cut them thin matchstick is an excellent choice.  However slicing thinnly in 1/2 circles after the carrot was cored could have happened just as easily.

CarrotsHere are the carrots, sliced with the multitude of spices and the first 2 Tbs of honey.

carrots w spices

The next step after cutting the carrots into thin slices is to place them  in a shallow casserole dish covering with water and adding 2 Tbs  of honey.  The recipe says to just add a little bit of honey and cover them with water.  I figured 2 Tbs is enough to still give the carrots a little sweetness while cooking them in water.

carrots water honey

Unfortunately the honey is lost in the picture.  This is to just give an idea on the carrot:water ratio which is to put in just enough water to cover the carrots.

Cook until the carrots are soft.

baked carrots

Now I judge soft carrots to be when I can stick a fork in them easily.  These were really tender after cooking for about 45 minutes at 400.  Keep an eye on the carrots though, your oven may be hotter or cooler and either scorched or undercooked carrots are not good.

Once the carrots are soft, drain the water and honey.

Period honey was a bit more “raw”, with wax and bees parts so required cooking prior to using skimming of the foam which contained the extra unwanted bits.  Modern honey is usually cleaned of inclusions so skimming is not necessary.  With that not if the honey used is from the store pour the remaining cup of honey onto the carrots.  If the honey is freshly drawn from a hive, start by cooking all of it in a large container, skimming off any froth that develops.

Once the carrots and honey have been combined in a pot add the ground spices and saffron.

carrots spices honey start

The honey may not look like enough, you want just enough to cover with out submerging.   The honey will thicken and reduce, so what was 2 cups of carrots and honey will coalesce into about a cup of jam.

Add the spices and start to cook the honey and carrots on the stove till thickened.  I would suggest to stir the mixture together and taste how the spices flavor the honey and carrots.  The fresher the spices the better the out come.  The mixture of spices suggested by the original recipe is very good though I added a couple of extra myself and did not add a couple due to availability.

This batch took 3 heating sessions.  I didn’t want to scorch the honey or carrots, so I would heat the mixture till it boiled then allow to cool.  The first two times the mixture was not thick enough which means either I didn’t heat the mixture enough, allow enough time to boil, or I added to much honey to my batch or a combination of the three.  The flavor is not ruined if the jam has to be heated more then once, so don’t worry if the honey hasn’t condensed enough the first time.

Jam

Once the jam is cool, spoon into a glass jar, securing the lid tightly.  As you can see the 2 cups of carrots have reduced to about one cup of jam here.  I used a recycled jam jar with a screw on lid.  Period containers would have been of glass but the lid would have been the type to fit onto the top and not a screw top.

I have to admit a little bread and a spoon to scoop the jam on to and you are in a spicy sweet carrot heaven!

Shiraz Leban bi-Buqul (Thickened Yoghurt with Herbs)

It’s pronounced HHHHerbs…because there’s an H in it!  Waaay to much Eddie Izzard.  I just couldn’t resist.  I know, I should probably try harder but it’s just sooo much fun!  Any way, back to our regularly scheduled recipe addition.  Today is more yogurt, or yoghurt, and a bit of herb spicing.

Shiraz Laban Bi-Buqul

(Thickened yoghurt with herbs)

Translation:

Take mint, celery leaves and vegetable leeks and strip them all from their stalks and cut them up finely with the knife.  Throw them in the mortar, and, when they release liquid after pounding, dry them off.  Then mix them well with shiraz (yoghurt drained of whey).  Throw a little salt on it, as much as it will bear, and mustard pounded fine, and moderate its flavor with the mustard…If you like, put pounded walnuts on it.

Medieval Arab Cookery p. 398-399.

Ingredients:

1 C yogurt                                            1/3 C chopped mint

1 Leek                                                             salt to taste

1 ½ tsp ground brown mustard seed     1/8 tsp pepper

1/3 cup celery leaves chopped

My Redaction:

This recipe is extremely easy.  A little care needs to be taken when washing the leek but other then that the dish is pretty much just chop, mix and eat.

Yogurt spices

Leeks are grown in sandy muddy soil which collects in the upright leaves.  The dirt needs to be washed out of the leeks other wise you have a very gritty muddy dish.  Not everyone’s favorite.  When I chop a leek I cut of the roots and the dark green hard leaves, leaving me with the pale green and white sections.  These are cut into halves then halved again.   Then I slice the quarters into 1/8 inch pieces (roughly).  These are put into a bowl and rinsed with running water till there are no more blotches or sandy bits to be seen or felt.

Using only the light green and white part  doesn’t sound like a lot, however once the leek is sliced into smaller bits it sort of falls to pieces and fluffs up considerably.  You should get roughly 1/2 to 1 cup worth of chopped (no compressed) leek pieces from that small bit left over.

If leeks are not available or in season I have made do with shallots or a mild onion in a pinch.

The mustard seeds are ground.  I did use a mortar and pestle this time as only a little mustard seed was needed.  The mint was actually store bought.   For adding the mint I would suggest 1/2 of the called for recipe, taste, then add a bit at a time.  I like the minty flavor as it compliments the yogurt’s depth and the leeks mild onion.  The celery leaves were optional this time around; however I usually use the inner leaves found on a celery bunch’s heart.  Definitely a nice inclusion though.

Yogurt mix

Once everything has been prepped mix into a bowl and you are ready to consume!

Samak Malih Bi-Labin (Salty Fish in Yogurt)

The name Salty Fish in Yogurt is a bit of a misnomer as the fish is dotted rather then covered, but that could just be a translation or an aesthetic point.  No matter the naming the taste is very very aesthetically pleasing to the palate and easy on the cook!   This is a 10 minute dish, including cooking and mix time while giving very full flavor for only a small bit of effort.

Samak Malih Bi-Laban

(Salty Fish in Yoghurt)

Translation:

Take salted fish, wash it, cut it up medium and fry it as we have mentioned.  Then take it from the pan hot and put it in yoghurt and garlic.  You throw nigella and finely milled Chinese cinnamon on its surface, and it is eaten hot or cold.

(Medieval Arab Cookery, pg. 390)

Ingredients:

Fish fillets (Talapia)                   1 Tbs sesame oil            1 cup yogurt                 6 cloves garlic

Salt to taste                                    1/8 tsb cinnamon

*The original recipe calls for salted fish.  My thought that this is fish stored in salt so as not to spoil, a common way to store meats during the middle ages; however with today’s advent of modern miracles i.e. the refrigerator getting truly salted fish is almost impossible.

My Redaction:

We start with the fish and ingredients that go with this simplistic but very tasty dish.  fish with spices

The fish of choice for the moment is Talapia.

A quick notation on fish for Middle Eastern cooking here: Fish are declared the best in the Baghdad Cookery courses as those that are river fish.  Three types of fish are mentioned specifically; Zajar, sturgeon; bunni or banana, carp; and the most admired variety, shabbut; however no recipes listed call for a specific type of fish, nor recipes from the Iraqui book known as ‘al-Baghadadi, or in the Syrian Kitab al-Wusla ila al-Habib.  (Rodinson, pg. 479-480). I have used the mild flavored fish tilapia as a substitute for fish found in today’s Middle Eastern rivers

When I make this dish, I mix the cup of yogurt with the well chopped garlic cloves first.   This bowl of garlicky yogurt is set to the side while I get the fish going.

yogurt with garlic

The next step is to take the sesame oil and pour it into the pan.  Heat the pan then lay the fillets into the oil.  (no picture here sorry was busy not splattering kitchen with the oil or burning the quickly cooking fish).  Salt each fillet side.  Don’t be worried about over doing the salt, don’t add teaspoons of salt but do add more then a few grains.  Remember this was originally made for salted fish…fish packed in salt to retard spoilage.

When the fish is thoroughly cooked on both sides place on a plate and dot (or smear) with a TBS or more of the garlic yogurt mixture.

fish with sesame and yogurt

Sprinkle with a little cinnamon and voila!  I know, I know…the cinnamon sounds really weird to the modern palate to be adding to yogurt with salt and fish instead of yogurt and sugar.  Try it this and you’ll be going “Oh wow!!!”.  Yes the dish really is that awesomely awesome not to mention handsome with the garlicky yogurt and a dash of cinnamon.

Porc en Ast (Roasted Pork Loin)

Ever been to a pig roast?  The kind where the meat of honor can take up the driver side of the car with both piggy feet touching the floor and still able to look over the dash, to tell the pedestrians to get the hell off of their piggy highway?   (Don’t ask…it’s just safer that way.)  The type of pig roast that the piggy is cooking all day long, till the fat has permeated the meat which is now falling off the bone?  Where salt has been added to the cooking meat with the occasional round of sauce and spices?  That’s what a full pig roast is about!  /drool!  Unfortunately we don’t have a full pig roasting, just a much smaller recipe of tasty piggy goodness.

We are bypassing the Romans today (and their wonderful piggy cooking) and going to Spain from the 14-15th century,  for a taste of pork that is almost sublime. There is some discussion among Roman cook books that period pork was both leaner and tastier, due to the pigs being herded among the woods to forage among oaks and orchards for dropped nuts and fruits, thus lending a nuttier and superior flavor.  This type of pig farming is still being utilized among Spanish pig farmers, centuries later, who raise of black Iberian pigs for specialty hams.  (Hey at $200 a lb for jamón Ibérico de bellota – one type of ham…I’d call that an expensive specialty!)  We aren’t going that rich though today.

Instead of a full sized pig roast, this recipe is on a slightly smaller scaled version, the kind where you can use a suckling pig (if you have a spit-roast in back) or just a really good pork loin on hand.  Guess which one I had?

Porc en Ast

Roasted Pork Loin

Translation:

Spit-roasted suckling ought to be eaten with ayllada blanca or with salt and pepper.

*Ayllada blanca is not given a definition.  My thoughts are this is either a white sauce or a spicing per the following of salt and pepper in the recipe.

*Bacon: This manual mentions that bacon of period was referred to as carn salada or “salted meat”.  “In the 14th century , medical philosophy held that smoke and smoky food were unhealthy.  meat was usually cured with a combination of salt and air drying.” (McDonald, pp. 10).  This was not always held in every area of the Medieval world for cooking as smoking was a viable way to preserve a varieties of meat.

(Banquest del Quatre Barres, pp. 5)

Ingredients:

1 – 1.5 lb pork loin                  course ground salt

*5-8 strips of bacon

*Optional

My Redaction:

Now this recipe is the pared down essential of how to make pork loin taste divine (one of these day’s it’ll be the full sized version!).   Not having a spit, I had to improvise a little.

Pork bacon salt

I have a decent bit of pork loin here.  I had originally taken a very large pork loin and cut the loin into 4 sections so as to maximize the different dishes I wished to cook while minimizing the cost.  Always a good thing to keep in mind.  The bacon is just a thick cut type and the salt a course ground sea salt.

The pork was salted on top and bottom then wrapped in bacon.

bacon wrapping

The bacon is held to the pork loin with the judicious use of toothpicks.

back side of bacon wrapping

The bacon covers the slight layer of fat, leaving the leaner side covered with the bacon ends.  Some cooks will argue that the lean side should be covered while the fat should be the pinned side.  I preferred covering the fat as the fat side became the top of the roasting loin with all the fat drippings going down onto the lean meat and into the pan, keeping everything juicy and moist.

The original recipe does not suggest bacon or carna salada, yet modern pork needs a little extra help some times to retain flavor.   I agree with the recipe that bacon should be added to help the flavor; however I salt prior to adding the bacon instead of after.  My personal take is the bacon can be peeled off if desired (heresy I know!) but the salt is an intrinsic part of the taste for this recipe.

The meat is placed with the toothpicks down ward in a roasting pan.

Loin in roasting pan

I added a little bit of water at the bottom to keep the house from filling from smoking pork and bacon grease.

The loin was cooked for 30 + minutes (till done) at 350.

Roaste Pork LoinThe cut in the middle was the first meat check to confirm well done.  It wasn’t so back in the oven it went till thoroughly cooked!

After removing from the roasting pan slices were cut along the bacon for 1″ perfectly done, incredibly taste pork.  This isn’t a spit-roasted pig by any means; however this is a pretty close 2nd or 3rd if a spit-roast or grill isn’t available!

Samak Maqlu bil-Khal wal-Tahina (Fried Fish with Vinegar and Tahini)

This is a really good fish dish, that doesn’t have a strong fish taste (for those who really can’t stand the strong fishy taste of…fish).  I also used tilapia, a rather mild flavored fish.   The bite of the vinegar melds well with the tahini and both combine very nicely with the fish and spices.   A warming bit of fishy goodness!

Samak Maqlu bil-Khal wal-Tahina

(Fried Fish with Vinegar and Tahini)

Translation:

Take salted or fresh fish, wash it well and dry it, then cut it up medium and fry in sesame oil  Throw a little dry coriander on it.  Then take as much vinegar and tahineh as needed and dissolve it until mixed; you moisten it with vinegar little by little until it has the desired consistency.  Season it, and if you wish, put in a little ground mustard and nuts or nuts with out mustard.  Then take it from the pan hot, and first put sesame oil in the pan, and coriander and milled Chinese cinnamon, and it is eaten.

Ingredients:

5 Tilapia fillets              3 Tbs sesame oil           1 ½ tsp coriander

½ cup tahini                  ¼ cup vinegar               3 Tbs pine nuts and pistachios

Salt to taste

My Redaction:

I laid out all the ingredients needed (except the coriander).  This is for 5 fillets though the recipe can be expanded or cut as needed depending on the size of fillets being cooked.

Fish with spices

In the far right corner are the nuts, roughly 3 Tbs each un-chopped and unsalted.  Any type of nut can be used from walnuts to hazelnuts, in multiple combination or singular i.e. just pine nuts.  I just happened to like the idea of pistachio and the rich nuttiness of pine nuts.

Before adding the oil to the pan I combined the tahini and vinegar together.

tahini and vinegar

The vinegar curdles the tahini a little bit, though the sesame seed paste absorbs the vinegar very quickly and makes a thick paste after the original curdling.  You can add more vinegar . if you prefer a sharp bite however do not add so much that the flavor of the tahini or fish is over powered.  Do not worry if the mixture still looks like peanut butter in thickness after combining.

Next, I heated up a pan with 1 ½ tsp sesame oil.  I used lightly toasted sesame oil instead of dark though either could be used.  Once the sesame oil was heated up I placed the tilapia into the oil then sprinkled coriander on top and allowed to brown on one side.

fish with corriander

You may be asking why this is bubbling instead of frying and I can answer that question.  The fillets were still a little frozen and the water is now frying out of the fish.  This sort of worked out very well.  With the water and the oil cooking very hot, I placed a lid over the fish to hep with the cooking time, which actually cooked the fish a little faster.

Once the bottom was browned I flipped the fillets over to brown on the other side, sprinkling with coriander.  With the top now on the bottom browning I dotted the browned side of the fillets with the tahini and vinegar mixture, covering the side as thoroughly as possible with the generous dolloped teaspoon.  By this time the other side should be browned and I flipped the fillets over again to warm up the tahini.  This was a quick 1-2 minute browning before I removed the fish from the pan.  Sorry no pictures of the tahini dotting as I was moving very fast to make sure nothing burnt.

Finally I added the last of the sesame oil to the frying pan and mixed the nuts with the oil till the nuts were sizzling.  Roughly 2-3 minutes.  I sprinkled the tilapia with salt then removed the nuts from the oil sprinkling those on top of the fillets.

cooked fish with nuts

Now the fillets do crumble on removing from the pan (or at least mine do).  So don’t worry about the non symmetrical fillets.  The fish will still taste excellent.  Sprinkle with just a touch of coarsely ground salt or regular salt and enjoy this with sesame roasted carrots or garlic fried spinach!

Flavored Cabbage

This is the historic coleslaw version of cabbage from the Middle East.  Usually I’m not a huge fan of cabbage.  I like my cabbage with corned beef and this recipe, flavored cabbage.  I have had people come up to me at events, when this dish was being displayed, asking for the redaction recipe.  It’s just that good!

Flavored Cabbage

Translation:

Take walnut meats and blanched almonds and toasted hazelnuts.  Pound everything, then take caraway which you toast and pound fine, and with it a little thyme and garlic seed.  Then you perfume the cabbage with good oil.  Then you take a little bit of vinegar; you dissolve the walnuts and ingredients with it.  Then you throw on a sufficiency of tahineh, and let there be a little Syrian cheese with it.  Add the spices to them and arrange them, then you throw the rest of the ingredients on the bowl.  Then throw in some of the first spice enough to perfume their taste and aroma.  It is not eaten until the next day.

Ingredients:

1/2  Cabbage                                      ¼ C. ea. ground walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts

1 tbs. ground toasted caraway  1 ½ tsp thyme (ground or fresh chopped)

2 cloves garlic                                       4 Tbs . sesame oil

1/3 C. vinegar                                       ½ C. Tahineh

1 C. Feta

My Redaction:

I had in my garden a few heads of cabbage.  Now the cabbage I grew is not the tight packed cabbage head normally seen in the grocery store, nor was it any of the Chinese variations of cabbage.   The cabbage I used was a loose leaf and not very tight packed head that survived one of the worst droughts of the SW seen in years.   The flavor was good but mild with a crisp leaf and dark green color.

Cabbage

My suggestion for the type of cabbage to use, is one that you will eat.  If you like a specific type try the cabbage in the recipe.  In the past I’ve used both green and red with tight packed heads; however my favorite thus far is the type grown in the garden.

I used a coffee grinder for the walnuts (and hazelnuts when available) while buying almond meal, putting these in a bowl to the side.

The caraway can be toasted in the oven (keep a very close on the seeds if you choose to do this) or toasted on top of the stove using a hot pan.  Once the seeds have been toasted, grind them up, either by hand in a mortar or in a cleaned coffee grinder.  I used pre-ground thyme and regular garlic instead of seeds.  (Seeds were unavailable.)

SpicesHere you can see the nuts (only walnuts and almonds), with dark sesame oil, vinegar, garlic, thyme, ground caraway seeds and the tahini.

I cut the cabbage heads ( I used 2 small cabbage heads the size of my fist since they were very loosely packed) in half and then sliced about a fingers width.  Once the cabbage is sliced, flavor with the dark sesame oil.

Cabbage w sesame oil

Now here you can use either light (toasted) sesame oil or a dark sesame oil.  I used the dark for a full body, richer taste.  The dark sesame oil will not be over powered by the tahini and spices.

The next step is to stir the ground nuts into the vinegar.

nuts to vinegar next to spices

Then incorporate the spices once the nuts are well mixed with the vinegar.

Then include the tahini into the mixture.

All incorporated

This looks a little bit like hummus just a bit more liquid.  Once everything is well mixed toss with the cabbage, adding a 3/4 of the feta cheese.

Cabbage w spice cheese

Sprinkle the remaining 1/4 cup of cheese on top.  Cover and let sit for a day for the flavors to blend together.

This is one of those dishes that is almost a meal.  The nuts, cheese and oil add an excellent taste and heartiness to the dish.  If there was nothing else in the house to eat then  cabbage with bread was it.  So the calories had to be packed in some how…and flavor incorporated enough to actually want to eat.

No really, even if you don’t like cabbage except in small amounts, try this one recipe!

Shiraz – Soft Cheese

With the gallon of home made yoghurt sitting in the fridge, it’s time to do some thing useful besides dribble sweety tasty honey over the yoghurt and dive in head first.  Time to make…Cheese!!!

This soft cheese is a quick easy cheese that can be made in as little as a few hours with only 2 ingredients.

Shiraz

(Soft Cheese)

Translation:

Use milk that is just drawn, still warm, incorporating the renet as it is, with its skin, and whipping the milk while it is warm so that it coagulates.  Then pour it into molds made from willow…sprinkle salt (over it) and set it aside.  If you wish to eat it right away, it is not necessary to salt it, in which case it is called simple cheese.

Ingredients:

1 pint yogurt (full fat)                 1 Tbs salt

OR

1 gallon milk                             1 tablet Rennet             1 Tbs salt

Note:  Rennet is an enzyme of a young mammal’s stomach that  is still drinking milk.  When the calf (cow) or kid (goat) was slaughtered the stomach lining cut into squares and mixed with freshly drawn milk to produce cheese.  Modern day solution are chemical tablets which produce the same effect with out the need of a young mammalian’s stomach lining.

Redaction:

Take whole milk fresh, if available, if not warm up a gallon of whole store bought milk.  Heat the milk to the just boiling, then mix the milk with rennet tablets.   Stirring until the milk starts to turn solid.  Pour into molds and salt.  The molds used can be anything from a butter mold to a bread mold, though a bread mold would make a very large loaf of cheese.

A second way to make cheese is to take full fat yogurt and mix with 1 Tbs of salt then pour into a lined strainer (either multiple layers of muslin or a coffee filter) that is supported in a bowl.

yogurt and strainer

Drain of the resulting liquid until very little liquid continues to be produced from the salted yoghurt.

The translated recipe does not say pour of the liquid though there is nothing that the liquid can be used for.  I believe the draining part is omitted because this step is so common sense, that to include it would waste ink and paper.

Once there is no more liquid being produced take the soft cheese out of the filter and eat.

cheese

This type of cheese is much like a soft cream cheese or a farmers cheese. I put mine into the refrigerator where the resulting soft cheese can last up to a week, 2 weeks in a sealed container.  This is also known as a Persian yogurt or Persian cheese.

Laban – Yoghurt (Yogurt)

Unless the weather was cold 24/7, milk didn’t last very long in it’s raw liquid state.  Some thing about a protein rich environment just waiting to be eaten.  So preservation of a vital source of protein was needed.  Hence the start of preserving milk with bacteria in the form of yoghurt and cheese.

I have been wanting to cover the basics of yoghurt making for awhile and then the opportune moment came in the form of a gallon of whole milk with a small but growing hole in the container as well as live culture yoghurt on hand.  So here we go, today we cover the basic of yoghurt making that includes items on hand and nothing special or gadgety.

I have yet to find a period documented recipe on how yoghurt was made in any of the Middle East cooking texts I have.  I believe this was so well known, much like milking a cow (Cow, bucket and person…all you needed to retrieve the milk, well that and a stool to sit on) that there was and would be no need to ever mention how milk was turned into yoghurt.  Where I did pick up a good very low tech yoghurt recipe was off of a website blog called http://noimpactman.typepad.com/.   There was no relying on thermometers to say when the milk was hot enough or cool enough, nor yoghurt incubators.  A cook had to know when the milk was ready to be taken from the fire and when and how to add yoghurt.

So here is the very basic for making yoghurt with whole milk.

Supplies: Clean all dishes and utensils prior to using.

1 large pot

1 gallon whole milk

1 spactula

2 small bowls

1 table spoon measurer

2-3 Tbs yoghurt

Step 1: Put one gallon of whole milk in a clean pot.  (Any milk will do as long as it is whole milk…you want the fat that whole milk offers for good period yoghurt.)  Stir the milk every few minutes, while bringing the pot up to boil,  so the milk does not scorch on the bottom.   The pot, the spoons, bowls and jars used for this were cleaned prior so that there was not any extra bacterium to contaminate or turn the milk from yoghurt into some thing else calling out for “Mommy!” at the back of the fridge.  The milk should be allowed to boil and foam, but don’t let the milk boil out of the pot.  Then things just get messy!

boiled milk

You can see where the milk boiled up to before I turned off the flame.  I cut it a little close at the boiling/foaming phase, but just a little!

Step 2: Allow the milk to cool till you can hold your pinky finger in the milk for 10 seconds.  This is a crucial step!!  To hot and the added yoghurt bacteria will be killed off.  To cool and extra floating around the house opportunistic bacteria  will start to grow.  This would be a baaaad thing.

Step 3: Once the milk has cooled, take out 2-3 Tbs of yoghurt from a previous batch (or a store bought container with live culture) and place in one of your two clean bowls.  In the 2nd bowl place a cup of the warm milk.  Stir the yoghurt in the bowl till of a smooth and creamy.  I know this sounds silly as yoghurt is already smooth and creamy but you want to warm up and spread out the cold yoghurt in the bowl.  stirred yogurt

Step 4: Slowly poor the milk from the other bowl into the yoghurt stirring the entire time.

yogurt and milk combined

Here the cooked milk is now thicker and cooler with the addition of the yoghurt which in turn is warmed enough to add to the main pot of milk.

Step 5: Add the bowl of yoghurt and milk to the pot of boiled milk, stirring the entire time.  This is more a dribble then a pour.  Dumping the entire contents of the bowl into the pot while quick will result in less the perfect batch.  So dribble and stir until till the bowl’s ingredients have been emptied into the pot.

Step 6: Pour the pot of milk into clean jars.  I luckily had two large glass jars on hand, cleaned prior to using, and closed securely with screw on lids.

jars with milk

Step 7: Place jars in warm area of the house.  Wrap a towel around the jars to retain heat.  Let the jars sit for 12-14 hours then place into the fridge.

You will then have a gallon of yoghurt on hand.  This is a  LOT of yoghurt.  Luckily for us there are a LOT of recipes from which to use this wonderful tasty treat.  Like herbed yoghurt or Persian dried yoghurt.  There are also a variety of cheeses that can be made as well.  But first, take a bowl of your newly made yoghurt, a spoon, then drizzle a bit of honey over the yoghurt.  This is a sweet sublime treat!