All posts by SoshaRuark

Coffee part 2

Coffee Part 2

I love my coffee.  Over the years, I have developed a fondness for differently prepared types of coffee.  I would never have thought that different preparations could yield widely different tasting coffees.  Yep, I’ve done the same type of bean in two different brewing methods and come up with a different taste. I mean I really liked the regular drip coffee you can make or by buy, then I really got into the whole espresso machine made Americano Coffee.  Then, then I discovered a french press.  This was the best way I have found to make coffee.  (Note this is my opinion…and nothing but my opinion).

When using the french press I do like using regular beans, unflavored.  For some reason the flavor just comes out oddly in a french press then it does in either a drip or from and espresso machine.  The french press, is not period, having been invented some time in the 1800’s.  However the mechanism for making coffee in a french press are closer to boiling coffee grounds, but instead of waiting for the water to cool, grounds to sink, then reheat your coffee for drinking;  all you have to do is press down on a screen and viola! you have your favorite beverage hot, ground free and ready for adding that little bit of sugar and a hint (or a cup) of cream.

So I am going to do a demonstration of as close to period as I can with what I have on hand.

So the pictures I do have are of the coffee grounds having been added and water.  I usually let this steep for about 3-5 minutes depending on how strong a flavor I want.  If I am feeling really really decadent I add a Tbs of coco powder for just a hint of chocolate.  (My coffee!  Don’t judge me! hehehehe)

Now I like this lid as the filters are 3 part.  One for the main area, where the coffee comes through.  There is extra on the sides where grounds like to try and make a run for it into the main body of the coffee and finally at the actual pour spout there is another filter to help keep the grounds in their place and out of my mug!

Here you can see the press at the bottom of the glass, while the wonderful elixir known as coffee is waiting to be poured.

Here is the final image with coffee and cookies ready for consuming!  Yes these are the shortbread cookies that are really really excellent for noshing on when consuming a strong drink like coffee.  Enjoy!

Coffee

Coffee

Coffee is not just a morning indulgence nor, from historical writings, as benign a drink as one would have assumed. Coffee is a very Middle Eastern beverage that at one point rivaled wine in consumption and the indulgences associated with wine houses.

Coffee Plant: of the genus Coffea; the description is an evergreen bush from which the seeds (also known as beans) are the prized fruit of the bush.  Coffea Arabica and Coffea canephora are the two most commonly grown in Latin America, Southeast Asia, and Africa. (Wikipidea).

Origin: Coffee (Coffea) is thought to have started in Ethiopia then moved to the Arabian peninsula, via Sufi monasteries, migrating north then across the Atlantic. This movement followed trade but not the exact route of the Silk Road. (anonymous, http://www.coffeeresearch.org/coffee/history.htm)

Making of Coffee: There were more then a few travelers, priests and scholars who wrote of coffee and the making of this popular drink. In Coffee and Coffeehouses: The Rise of the Coffeehouse, one of the period commenter’s is  Jaziri,  says of the descriptions and preparations of coffee  “…in the summer the Arabs use the husks, and in the winter the kernels of the bean, to benefit from the application of “cold” nature of the husks and in the summer, and the “hot” nature of the kernels in winter.”.  Another example is from Kha’ir  Beg “cooked from the husks of the seed called bunn that comes from Yemen”.  A third example would be that of the Jesuit priest who say “water boiled with the rind of the fruit which they call Bune.  (Hattox, pp. 83-84)

The actual preparation was written by Niebhur as the bean was roasted slightly pounded then had boiling water poured over the grounds to produce a pleasant tea like beverage.  This type of coffee qahwa qishirya, with the flavoring of tea, is still served today in Yemen and tastes like an oddly spiced tea. (Hattox, pp. 85).  I would be curious to try, what sounds to be a milder version of what most people consider a strong stimulating drink.

Both a mortar and a mill were used for grinding of the bean as well as the husk after being roasted.  These methods were noted by the Flemish traveler Joannes Cotovicus. Though in later years, coffee millers took to the supplying of ground so that the individual coffee houses no longer had to worry about roasting and grinding their own coffee. (Hattox, pp. 85)

The coffee pot has been sketched as a squat round bodied pot “tinned inside and out” Hattox, pp. 86) with a narrow pouring spout and a side handle either sticking straight out or curved.

I have included a slightly out of period picture.  The description of this by the seller on Etsy http://www.etsy.com/listing/35229892/antique-middle-eastern-brass-coffee-pot

“The Arab coffee pot is called ‘Dallah’, a traditional pot with a long spout, used to make Arabic coffee. Dallah a symbol of welcome as coffee is always served to guests.

This particular pot was obviously created as a functional piece, likely for the makers personal use and presumably spent some time warming in the embers of a desert fire. Based on the crude decorative style I believe the piece dates to the 1800’s. I am uncertain as to the country of origin, however research suggests that the bird images used to decorate this dallah, might be that of a Simorgh, which is a famous mythical giant bird in Persian literature.

MEASUREMENTS:
Height – 10″
Mouth – 3 1/4″
Width – 9 1/4″ (spout to handle)
Base – 3 1/8″
Weight – 1.12 lbs (28 oz)

IMPORTANT:

I should – CLARIFY – that this IS NOT the EXACT coffee pot photographed in the National Geographic magazine, but rather the former owner used this publication source as a research reference for identifying the type of pot and it’s origin. They didn’t have the advantage of internet research back in the 1970’s. 

coffee pot pics

Serving: Coffee was served in small cups as seen in the sketches provided by Hattox in Coffee and Coffeehouses, by both coffee houses and by street vendors.

Venues: Coffeehouses were considers venues of social gathering for men but also where chess, backgammon and eventually card games were played, some times for stakes.  These houses were also the places where speech was more free and some times seditious plans, so much so that the sultanate Murat IV the forth had the “meeting places of the people, and of mutinous soldiers” torn down under the guise of places of fire hazards. (Hattox, pp. 102)

Coffees part in history is fairly colorful and well traveled.  There is no denying that coffee like tea and wine has a place in the great drinks of history.

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coffee

http://www.coffeeresearch.org/coffee/history.htm

Hattox, R., (1985). Coffee and Coffehouses.

http://www.etsy.com/listing/35229892/antique-middle-eastern-brass-coffee-pot

Scotch Petticoat Tails (Petits Gateaux Tailes)

I know I know…this is suppose to be about Middle Eastern Redactions not English.  Every one and their dog does English…but I LOVE short bread.  Really good buttery melt in your mouth short bread is just heavenly.  /Swoon!  So…since I couldn’t find the equivalent in all of my Middle Eastern books for flour, sugar, and butter, I had to go with English.  Now I did add a few flourishes that weren’t period, well because I had a really new nifty pie pan I wanted to try out.  You’ll see the results in just a moment!

Next post will be about some thing very very Middle Eastern though.  Promise!

Scotch Petticoat Tails

Petits Gateaux Tailes

Circa 1568:Rub six ounces butter into one pound of flour, then mix in six ounces of powdered sugar and a teaspoonful of baking powder.  Add a little water, and work into a smooth dough with the hands.  Divide into two portions.  Roll into round cakes about the size of a dinner plate.  Cut a round cake from the center of each with a cutter four inches in diameter, then divide the outside of each into eight.  Prick all over each with a fork. Dust with the finest of sugar, and bake on buttered tins in a moderate oven for about twenty minutes, till crisp and golden.  Dust with castor sugar.

Craig, pp. 112-113

Ingredients:

6 oz. butter       1lb of flour        6 oz powdered sugar    1 tsp. baking powder

1 oz sugar for dusting

Redaction:

When combining the ingredients,

I stirred the flour, sugar and baking powder together to achieve a well mixed consistency in the dry ingredients.

I used chilled butter, cut into squares,  and worked into the dry mixture till everything reached a cornmeal stage then continued working till the butter was fully incorporated.

When the mixture could be saturated with no more butter I added just a touch of water to allow a dough to form.  Here I cheated slightly.  I had a nifty fluted edged pie pan I wanted to try out on with a sweet crust and thought short bread would be the thing.  So instead of dividing the dough into two, I pressed the dough into a non stick (period wise the pan would need to have been well buttered or oiled) fluted pie pan

and cooked for 20 minutes.

Now you may wonder why the fork marks (actually a tooth pick was used).  I have done a little reading on the subject and the over all consensus is that it was a) traditional and b) used to let the steam from the melting butter out with out creating craters in the dough.

There is also suppose to be a circle taken out of the center but I did not have a circle cutter to fit and I like the whole pie cookie idea.  So I left the center whole.

The original marks and cuts actually baked away so I redid them while the cookies were cooling for that shortbread look.  Not sure why the holes closed in, instead of baking into the hardening dough, but they did.  I’ll keep trying till I get it right though!

The cookies came out very very tasty.  Not quite period but very good.

The cookies were crispy on the edges with a golden brown color, while slightly chewy and moist in the center.

A closer look at the fluted edges.  Really cool!

A final picture with all the cookies on a plate before they were devoured by the hungry hoards.  They were sweet crunchy/chewy and oooh so decedant. Well worth doing again and again.

I like the fluted edges and will probably use this recipe to make a cookie crust for a plum pie next time.

Sugar

Sugar was not, historically, plentiful or abundant until the late 1500’s.  What we would consider an every day stable was used sparingly for medicinal used (improve digestion and increase appetite) to only found on the tables of the relatively wealthy.

SugarSaccharum officinarum “…considered a spice even rarer and more expensive then any other…pharmaceutical use…gives its species name of officinarum.”   Considered very expensive till the late 1500.

Loaf sugar given the name due to the conical shape derived from refining into a hard and very white refined form.

Caffetin or Couffin (English equivalent of “coffer” or “coffin”) named for the form, packed in plaited leaves palm and from the city shipped from called Caffa in the Crimea.   

Casson a very fragile sugar also considered the ancestor to Castor sugar.  Muscarrat considered the best of all sugars, reported to be made in Egypt for the Sultan of Babylon.

The Italian name mucchera denotes that it had been refined twice.

Toussaint-Samat, pg. 553-555

Figee or Figgy

It’s fig season here.  Yielding small delectable sweet little treats fresh from the tree.  I had so many I couldn’t eat them all and wanted to preserve the few I had left.  I couldn’t find a good Roman recipe perserve to use so I went with some thing English.

Figee or Figgy

(Fig Paste)

Original: Figee. Nym figes, & boille hem in wyn; & bray hem in a mortar with lied bred; temper hit vp with goud wyn/ boille it/do thereto good spicere, & hole resons/ dresse hit/ florisshe it a-boue with pommegarnetes.

Translation:

Take figs, & boil them in wine, & bray them in a mortar with mixed bread; mix it up with good wine/ boil it/ put thereto good spicery, & whole raisins/ dress it/ garnish it above with pomegranates.

(Renfrow, pp. 168-169)

Ingredients:

9 figs (dried or fresh)

1 C wine          1 tsp dried ground spices i.e. cinnamon cardamom, nutmeg, lavender, black pepper.

2 slices dried toast (whole wheat is a personal preference)

Redaction:

Here I have all the ingredients lined up and ready to be cooked.

I boiled the figs in wine till tender and well juiced up with flavor.

The figs were pulled out of the wine, (leave the wine in the pot)  then ground with the toast (dried bread) into a thick paste.

The paste was then was put back over the fire with the wine from boiling.   Once the wine was added into the ground figs, the spices were added.

This doesn’t look appealing I know…the finished cooked paste makes up for the look.  Once the mixture had cooked well, raisons were added.

This is the point in which pomegranate seeds would be added for decoration (which are really needed as the general appearance is a bit…brown and gooey!)

Mastic

I was out and about shopping for baker’s ammonia (Hartshorn), that is used in Springerle cookies, when I stumbled across Mastic.  Now this spice is called for in more then a few Middle Eastern dishes.  ‘Previously I did not have this on hand so bypassed the spice’s inclusion with out fear of loosing to much of the essential flavoring in a dish.  I now have this little gem of a spice on hand so I though I would share with you a little history.

From the Kitab Al-Tabikh, the author writes that a well knowing spice  shopper, when out to purchase mastic,  should be looking for “…the kind with large, bright grains, not small, and free of dust and dirt;…”(Rodinson, pp. 39)

Mastic is a resin, hardened and stored in air tight containers before being ground into powder for consumption, from the mastic tree (Pistacia Leniscus), also known as Arabic Gum (Not gum arabic) as well as Yemen gum or tears of Chios.  The best “tears” are said to be the slightly green gold in color while the inferior tears are the white tears.

The inclusion of this spice, seems to be in a variety of recipes from savory to sweet as well as medicinal.   The taste is faintly piny and is thought to help purifier the breath. 1/2 teaspoon is the maximum amount suggested in food for four people.  So a little will go a very long way!

I purchased my small jar (roughly 1/4 cup if that) at the Phoenician Bakery in town, a small Middle Eastern Grocery store.  I have no suggestions for an online spice shop as my usual go to store http://www.worldspice.com/home/home.shtml does not carry this.  Luckily for me it was in town.

Zomos (Herb Sauce over Butter Beans)

Zomos

Butter Beans in Herb Sauce

Translation:

Put wheat groats, coriander, leeks, onion, dill, basil and a little aniseed into a mortar.  Boil on the stove and moisten with water, wine, garum and wine vinegar all mixed together.  When it has boiled and you are about to take it off the heat, sprinkle on some ground pepper.  Some people make it slightly sharp with wine vinegar by pouring over a little, and then remove it from the fire; but others boil everything when the wine vinegar has been added and by adding green herbs they make it ready to serve.

(Grant, pp. 131 from the Heidelberg Papyrus)

Ingredients:

¼ C whole barley or wheat groats                     1 leek   1 onion

1 tsp dried dill, basil, coriander              1 pinch aniseed

½ C water                    1 C wine                      1 tsp garum

¼ tsp ground pepper    1 tsp parsley

Redaction:

The day before, place the 1 C dried butter beans in a pot of water and let sit over night.

cooked beans

Before making the sauce the next day, boil the beans for 30 minutes or until soft.  Drain and set to the side.

With the translation I did a little ad-libbing this into 2 parts.  One sauce is a dry sauce with the ingredients roughly chopped, the other is a cooked with the ingredients ground into a more liquid type of sauce

Slice the onions and leeks into small pieces.  (Optional part is to fry the onions and leeks till soft before adding to the boiling pot.)

Zomos spices 2

Mix the dill, basil, coriander and aniseed in a mortar.

sauted spices

Take the water, wine, garum and wine vinegar and mix in a pot, then bring to a boil.   Add the onions, leeks and barley.

sauted 2

Boil the mixture till the barley (or wheat groats are soft).  Sprinkle with parsley and serve over butter beans.

over beans 1

This is what the first redaction looked like when the onions were coarsely chopped and barely grains were added whole.

The 2nd redaction I ground the onions and spices and cooked in the wine but did not reduce the sauce until almost dry.

sauce over beans2

Both sauces are very tasty over the beans, yet the look is very different.  This may be more of an aesthetic for the cook on how to make the sauce!

Stuffed Dates/Figs Apicius 296

You have those days where you need a little sweet or a bit of salty sweetness?  This my friends is the Roman equivalent of rocking your socks with this salty (or unsalted) goodness!

Stuffed Dates

Apicius 296

Translation:

A home made sweet: remove the pits from palmyra fruits or dates, and stuff them with walnuts or pine nuts or ground pepper.  Roll them in salt, fry in cooked honey and serve. (Herklotz, pp. 189)

Ingredients:

Fresh figs and/or dates  Walnuts halves  Pine nuts           Tsp salt

4 Tbs honey (or enough to coat depending on size of cooking batch)

Redaction:

I decided to try half of the cooked dates and figs with walnuts and the other half with pine nuts.

figs dates salt

Next step was to take off the tops of the figs and pit the dates.

ready for stuffing

Then I wanted to try half of each type of stuffed fruit with salt and the other half with out salt.  i.e. I had 4 dates in total, 2 dates stuffed with walnuts and 2 stuffed with pine nuts, of these I rolled two in salt, one stuffed with walnuts and one stuffed with pine nuts.

stuffed

After stuffing several pieces of the fruit were rolled in salt.

rolled in salt

I heated up the 4Tbs of honey until thoroughly warmed and slightly boiling (or frying).  I then placed each stuffed piece of fruit in the honey.

frying in honey

I would suggest that the unsalted pieces be cooked first then the salted.  Once each piece was thoroughly coated I placed on a plate.  The salt did not stay very well through the cooking process, then again I only placed a light coating of salt on the fruit.  I might suggest sprinkling salt afterwards if the fruit appears to not have any or very little salt remaining.

ready to eat

I have to admit that the salted and unsalted date with walnut was my favorite.  The figs with walnuts were excellent as well though next time I would keep them in the honey a bit longer as the center was still a bit cool.  The pine nut stuffed fruit was a bit of a disappointment though it might have been because I did not stuff enough into the interior.

This is a quick simple very tasty dessert with or with out salt.

Mufarraka (Chicken Livers)

Occasionally I have a craving for chicken livers.  I like mine fried in a little bit of olive oil till crunchy on the outside yet still juicy on the inside.  Some times I’ll want to save the livers from a chicken for one of those days I’m craving that little bit of crunchy tasty iron treats.  Unfortunately saving livers can some times be to much of a good thing when I find I have 12 of them tucked away in the freezer.  So what do you do when you have a few extra chicken livers and gizzards?  Why you spice them up of course!

Mufarraka

Chicken Livers

Translation:

Take chicken livers and gizzards, wash them, boil them in water with a little salt, then take them out and chop them small.  Then mix them with the whites of eggs, put the necessary amount of the described spices on them, and fry them in a pan with sesame oil, stirring continuously.  If you want it made sour, leave some filtered lemon juice on it.  If you want it plain do not leave lemon juice or eggs on it.

Perry, pp. 79

Ingredients:

1 lb chicken livers and gizzards

½ tsp coriander, cumin, ground pepper, thyme, turmeric, dill

3 egg whites

My Redaction:

I took chicken livers and gizzards saved from the chickens used in other recipes (or just dinner)

livers w spices

and boiled them till cooked.

cooking livers

I cheated just a touch.  Some of the livers are actually turkey livers I had on hand as well.  (Shhhhh!)

Once cooked and cooled, the livers and gizzards were chopped up smallish, roughly the size of the pinky tip.

cooked liver with spices

The mixture was then combined with the spices and eggs, the fried in sesame oil.

liver spices frying

I tried lemon juice on part of these and part was left plain.

liver in bowl w bread

Both ways taste excellently either as a main dish or scooped up and used as a condiment on good bread!

Fried Mujabbana in the Toledo style

Well I am a little late in getting a new update posted.  Since I have been slightly remiss in getting a new recipe out to you, my adoring fans! I am posting this incredibly sweet delectable treat.  Just for you!

Fried Mujabbana in the Toledo Style

(Sweet Cheese Pockets)

Translation:

A dough is prepared using extra-fine flour and water, salt and oil as indicated in the recipe for oven-baked mujabbana.  An amount of fresh cheese equal to three quarters of the amount of flour is grated.  Is mixed with aniseed and mint juice and fresh coriander (cilantro), as already indicated.  The dough is rolled out with a rolling pin to make (small) round leaves.  Place the necessary quantity of grated cheese in the middle of each piece of dough, and pull back the edges toward the center pressing downward lightly.  The little packets one obtains in this way are placed in a copper or ceramic pan and cooked in the oven that is used for cooking biscuits and such things.

When the little packets begin to brown, they are taken out of the oven and arranged on a ceramic or wooden serving dish, one on top of the other.  They are then covered with honey and fresh melted butter.  After they are sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon, they can be eaten, God willing.

Zaouali, pp. 107

Ingredients:

Dough:

1 C flour                      2 Tbs olive oil                  1 Tbs water

Stuffing:

¾ C goat cheese (feta)                ½ tsp aniseed                  ½ tsp coriander            ½ tsp mints

3 Tbs melted butter                      1/3 C Honey

Cinnamon and sugar for sprinkling on.

My Redaction:

When I first did this recipe I thought the cheese pockets were a savory treat, then I realized that the final preparation was for a sweet and savory with the honey, butter, sugar and cinnamon finish.  Wow!  These are awesome!

Mix the dough together, then roll out on a well floured surface.

flat dough

I made small rounds using a biscuit cutting tin.  From one cup of the dough mixture I was able to make 7 rounds.

cicles and mixed cheese

Mix the cheese with the aniseed, coriander and mint.

chese with spices

The recipe calls for mint juice.  The only mint liquid available was a syrup.  The cheese mixture does not call for any sugar so I decided a syrup was not the way to go, instead I substituted dried mint.  I did not have fresh coriander on hand as it was the wrong time of the year, so dried coriander was used instead.  The cheese was Feta though any good goat cheese would do well.  The cheese and the spices were mixed in a bowl and set to one side.

After the cheese mixture was complete, I took a dough round and put part of the mixture into the middle then folded the dough over and sealed the edges by pressing firmly down.

cheese dumpling being made

Once all the dough rounds were filled, they were moved to an oiled cookie sheet and set into the oven at 350 till brown (roughly 10 minutes).

Uncooked cheese dumplings.cookie sheet with cheese dumpling

Cooked cheese dumplings.

cooked cheese dumpling

If you’ll notice one is now missing.  Had to do a taste test on the yummy savory goodness.  It was really tasty!

I then pulled the cheese packets out of the oven and placed on a plate.  I did not stack them one on top of the other but placed them side by side for better sweet coverage.

cheese dumplings with sweets

I poured the melted butter over them,

dumpling with butter

then the honey

dumplings with honey

and finally sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon.

dumplings with all spices on top

These are just incredible fresh from the oven with warm melty butter and honey.  Perfect for a dessert or a side nibble with coffee.  They did not last long at all.  Even after a filling dinner, there is always room for a sweet and savory cheese dumpling!