Asides

Cubeb

I had a recipe that called for cubebs.

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.savoryspiceshop.com

I was like “Cool!  I can use one of my period spices!!!”  I was so pumped to do this.  I used my usual 1 tsp per pound rule and the dish was cooked.  Oh my gaaaaawd!  Do NOT use 1 tsp per pound of meat rule of thumb with the cubeb, go with half and then take out another half! So 1/8th to 1/4 tsp per lb. of meat is really all you need.  Really.

To me the Cubeb tastes like a juniper tree and a pepper tree had an unholy night of debauchery to produce the cubeb which they never speak of again.  The taste is bitter and peppery, and to much will numb your tongue, overwhelming the taste buds.  It is a good spice, used quiet a bit in period cooking and healing; however a little goes a very long way.

A little bit of history now that I’ve given you my opinion.  Cubeb is known as Piper cubeba or Java pepper.  What we used in cooking is the small dried pericarp while the seed is hard white and oily.  The cubeb smells amazing just don’t go overboard when using the dried spice.  The main source of cubebs is Java and Sumatra, making this one of the West Indies favored spices.  The cubeb was used in Greek, Roman somewhere in the 2nd century AD,with Middle Eastern cooking in the 10th century and eventually made it’s way to the main European continent up to England some time in the 14th century. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cubeb)

The history of cubeb is well worth a read and a good spice, if a bit overpowering.

 

 

 

Grains of Paradise

I’ve been remiss in putting this flavorful little spice into the Ingredients section.  Fixing that right now!

Grains of paradise look like small black pepper seeds.

Aframomum melegueta: Grains of Paradise

They taste like pepper with a floral bite.  Awesome!  I can not extol the amazing flavor of these enough.

So a little bit of history on our favorite spice.  This come from the ginger family (a very flavorful family it is!) The grains grow on a tall leafy plant.

Aframomum melegueta: Grain of Paradise plant

The seed pods are a really pretty red.  Very visible.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aframomum_melegueta#/media/File:Grainsofparadisefruits.jpg

Grains of Paradise are known as Aframomum melegueta; also known as Alligator pepper and Guinea grains.  (There are other names but we’ll concentrate on the main ones first. Hailing from West Africa, Ivory Coast, Togo, Nigeria and southern Ethiopia.

(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aframomum_melegueta; http://gernot-katzers-spice-pages.com/engl/Afra_mel.html)

One of the most unusual things I’ve found when doing my research on this is that I can not find any mention of this spice in any of my Middle Eastern cookbooks.  I’ve looked under the names Grana Paradisi, gargeri gan ha-eden, Malagueta, or Malagueta pepper.  I’ve looked under peppers and ginger in case I’ve missed an odd entry that read “Ginger of a different sort”.  No such luck.  This spice was definitly traded widely as it is found in English, French, Spanish, Russian and Greek dishes.  This makes me wonder if some recipes were translated with “Pepper” but should ready “Grains of Paradise Pepper” instead.

Just a bit of musing there.  Nothing I can put my finger on decisively other than this was a WIDELY traded spice so there should be no reason it’s not in the books…  Going to have to do some cooking to see what I taste.

 

Ujaj Mudawwarat (Another Omelet)

So this one…is just a bit outside of my taste range.  I’m sure it was an excellent and enjoyable treat.  This dish is NOT your typical omelet.  More like a savory sweet for the cook to show off their skill.  Posting this as a “Hmmm…how creative/showing off do I really want to do here.”

Ujaj Mudawwarat

(Another Omelet)

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Translation:

Take some eggs and spate the whites from the yolks. Add a little honey to the whites, beat them together, and add to them chopped rue, tarragon, mint and basil. Beat this mixture well, put it in a pot and light a fire underneath it until it sets and thickens. Sprinkle it with ta little cumin cassia, murrie and olive oil. Turn the egg white disc onto a platter and spread it on the egg yolk you have separated, sweetened with sugar and cooked until thickened and set. (al-Warraq’s, pp. 329)

Ingredients:

3 eggs (Separate the whites from the yolk)

1 tsp honey

1/8 tsp ground tarragon, mint and basil

1/2 tsp sugar

Topping:

Cumin, cinnamon, fish sauce, and olive oil

 

Redaction:

Separate your eggs, the whites from the yolks.

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Mix the whites with the honey.

 

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Pour the mixture into a lightly greased pan.

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Once out of the pan sprinkle with cumin, cinnamon, fish sauce and olive oil (a few drops not too much). Put the finished whites on a plate.

 

Next take the yolk add the sugar and cook.

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Add the yolks on top of the whites for a crowned omelet.

 

June 2015 077I know this is a bit of a messy picture.  The omelet cooking in two parts was a bit of a messy project.  Try this once just to say you have.  This is a good learning experience with out taking to much time or to many costly ingredients.

Maghmuma (Thin Sliced Meat Pot Pie)

This dish did not turn out as expected.  It was an experiment where a lot was learned and will be retried.  So here is my mistake with my ideas on how to do it better next time!

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Translation:

Take some fatty meat and cut it into thin slices, the thinner you can get them. Take some round onions and slice them thinly crosswise into discs like coins.

Now prepare a clean pot of soapstone. Spread its bottom with a layer of the meat; sprinkle it with black pepper, coriander, and caraway; and spread a layer of the onion slices. Put another layer of the meat and fat sprinkle it with spices and salt then another layer of onion.

Cover with round of bread. Cook the pot on a slow-burning fire until meat is cooked. Invert the pot onto a wide bowl and serve it, God willing. (Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq, pp. 311)

Ingredients:1.5 lbs thin sliced meat i.e. tongue or brisket

1 tsp ground pepper

2 tsp ground coriander

2 tsp caraway seed

1 onion sliced in rounds; if too big to cut into coin sized rounds cut the onion in half and thinly sliced half pieces

1 round of raw dough.

Redaction:

This recipe was made with tongue, a tough piece of fairly lean meat. I personally believe that a fatty piece of meat such as a brisket would have been a good choice as well.

The skin of the tongue was peeled,

Raison sauce and tongue pie 008then sliced it as thinly as possible. Some slices were thinner than others.

The spices were gathered together then mixed together.

Raison sauce and tongue pie 012The clay pot was oiled on the bottom before the meat was added.

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The meat was added then spiced. Rounds of onions were scattered over the meat. I used dabs of butter for the fat as the tongue is very lean.

Raison sauce and tongue pie 016A second layer was added and the final round of spiced meat.

Raison sauce and tongue pie 022            At this point a layer of dough should have been added over the meat; however as this was a first time dish not all of the directions were read. I have to say it was a good misfortune to have missed the dough. The dish came out very tasty but very moist, almost soupy, with all of the butter and juice from the tongue. Had a crust been added, it would have been soggy and nasty.

The meat came out of the oven a little too early. The very thin slices were perfect at 350 for an hour. The thicker slices were good but chewier and could have stood for another hour of cooking.

Raison sauce and tongue pie 024            Over all the dish was tasty, even with missing the crust. I would probably suggest using a tough and fatty meat for next time such as brisket. The brisket would negate the necessity of butter while allowing for a non-soggy crust.

Raisins of Corinth (Currant Sauce)

Life has been busier than a one legged man in a butt kicking contest.  Right now, my house looks like it’s been mugged by a grocery store as I get ready to feed 150 people at the Bryn Gwlad fall event.  Excited but exhausting.  No helpers, as my kitchen is sized for 1 and .5 butts.  Luckily the meat is mostly done now I’m just down to the pilaf and stewed fruits.  However I do have a few moments to post this wonderful little gem of a dish.  One of many quick easy sauces that is absolutely divine!

 

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Raisins of Corinth (Currant Sauce)

Translation:

…make a syrup of wine, raisins of Corinth, sugar and saffron, and boil it a little; mix powder of Ginger with a little of the same wine, and put thereto; then put away the fat of the stew of the capon and put the syrup of the stew and pour it on the capon and serve it forth. (Renfrow, pp. 94)

Ingredients:

1 C. wine

1 C. broth

1.5 tsp ginger

4 tsp raisins

1.5 tsp cinnamon

Or

2 C. broth and NO wine.

Redaction:

I used a white wine from a previously opened bottle with chicken stock. The spices were all gathered with the stock and wine.

 

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The liquid poured into a pot, set on high. The spices were added with the raisins. The spiced stock was then boiled for roughly 20 minutes (or until reduced to half).

 

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At this point the sauce tasted excellent but was not very thick. I would suggest grinding the raisins prior to adding to the wine and stock or you can reduce the sauce then hit frappe in the blender. This sauce is nicely sweet and savory all at once with a touch of alcohol. If you don’t have a white wine, use a red or mead. Whatever your preference is or is on hand. Should alcohol (wine mead or beer) be an issue use 2 C. of broth, reducing down to one cup with all the spices included.

The sauce is just that easy.  Minimal muss and fuss.  Period sauces were use what you have and make it quickly but well.

Raison sauce and tongue pie 023

 

The sauce was tested not on capon or roasted hen but on wine cooked tongue. The sauce and tongue were a great hit. Chicken is the next meat to be dipped into this sauce.

Mark Grant Roman Cookery Book #2

I am a big fan of good Roman cookbooks (or any good period cookbook) however Mark Grant is abusing that level of interest in a big way with his books.

Don’t get me wrong, Mark Grant’s cookbook Roman Cookery should be in any person’s repertoire for good Roman cooking but not both books.

Book #1

Mark Grant 1st book This is a good book.  Do NOT use his redactions.  He uses American cheese(s) instead of feta and sort of vaguely suggests other period food sources.  Buy the book for the recipes and the research NOT for his redactions.

 

Book#2Mark Grabt 2nd book

Looks different.  Possibly MORE new recipes…must buy.  Right?  Wrong!!  This book is recycled information as the first book.  There is nothing new.  I was very sad to find this out the hard way after buying book #2 and really salivating over the prospect of new recipes from cooks other than Apicus.  I was severely disappointed.

 

Buy one or the other but not both.

Saffron vs. Safflower

I have been remiss in posting ingredients and spices lately and one of the most important spice in medieval cooking (besides cinnamon) is saffron.  Now I am guilty of substituting faux saffron for the real thing.  The budget gets frowned upon when I add an $18 of true saffron to the list that is less than 1/4 an ounce, especially when that whole bottle will be used for ONE dish.  So here is the skinny on true saffron and how to overcome sticker shock if needed.

Saffron vs. Safflower

Saffron (Crocus Sativus) is made from the the stigmas of the crocus plants.  These stigmas have a subtle flavor and add an amazing gold color to any dish.  To get the saffron taste, take a small pinch and let soak overnight in hot water.  Saffron fanciers believe that true saffron is a must for all paella, bouillabaisse and risottos (let alone any dish that calls for the good stuff).

Mexican Saffron, also known as Safflower, is made from the dried petals of the safflower plant (Carthamus Tinctorius).  The safflower will color any dish it is in with a lovely red/gold tincture much like the real saffron.  Some claim there is little to no flavor.  Personally I disagree.  There is a subtle flavor that is imparted with the coloring when the petals are added.  No, the two are not related and the there is a huge price difference between the two.

 

So what do you do if you can’t get real saffron?  Well there are a couple of things.  You can go with the Mexican saffron for color and a different subtle taste OR you can combing 1/8 tsp turmeric with 1/2 tsp sweet Hungarian paprika.  Mix these two together and add sparingly.  This is a substitute that is sort of in the parking lot of the ball park of real saffron.  A substitute but not a perfect substitute.

Tabahija with Honey (Sliced Meat with Honey)

So whats for dinner?  Beef!  I had a yen for a new dish and a bit of time on hand.  This gem showcases different flavors in the best of way.

Tabahija with Honey (Slice Meat with Honey)

Sliced meat with honey 019

Translation:

In a green glazed bowl, mix to blend 1/4 ratl murri with 2 Tbs. honey. Strain the mix through a sieve. Add 3 grams coriander, 1 1/2 grams black pepper, 1 gram cinnamon, and 1 gram asafetida.

Slice 2 lbs. lamb and marinate it in the sauce. Set up a pot on the fire and add 2/3 C. sweet olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the sliced meat with the marinade along with 1 gram crushed salt.

Cook the meat until the sauce is greatly reduced. Let the pot settle for a while then serve the Tabajija garnished with chopped cilantro and rue. (Iban Sayyar al-Warraq. Pp. 358, 359)

 

Ingredients:

2 lbs. slice meat (beef or lamb)

2 tsp fish sauce

1 tsp soy sauce

2 tsp coriander

1 tsp black pepper

1 tsp cinnamon

3 cloves minced garic

2/3 – 1 C. olive oil

Optional:

1 tsp sea salt

1 C. mead or sweet wine

Redaction:

I gathered the spices together and had to make a few changes (it’s cooking you’re allowed to change things a little).  I know…cinnamon and garlic and cumin just sound weird but it works.  Give it a try!

Sliced meat with honey 003I used fish sauce mixed with soy sauce to mimic a good murri.   Then I mixed this with honey but I did not strain before mixing.

Sliced meat with honey 006There were neither vegetable matter nor bug parts from the murri or honey that needed to be strained out.

I sliced up the meat.

Sliced meat with honey 011I had a hunk of beef brisket tip that needed a long slow cooking recipe, this was that recipe. The meat was sliced roughly 1/2 inch thick as this will cook down and I didn’t want paper thin strips without texture. You can if you want cut the meat paper thin; this is a texture/taste issue!

I mixed the meat with the marinade.

Sliced meat with honey 012As you can tell the marinade just covers all the meat. Either I need more marinade or I can use a sweet liquid to help bolster the sauce. I decide the liquid route especially since I had a bottle of mead handy. Red or white sweet wine can be used instead if you desire to use the liquid route or you can make a lot more marinade if you have more meat than expected. It’s all good.

Once the meat was in the marinade, I poured the olive oil into a pot and let it get hot.

Sliced meat with honey 013When the oil was hot, I slide the meat, piece by piece, into the oil.

Sliced meat with honey 015The marinade liquid was poured on top after all the meat was in the oil. The heat was turned low to allow the meat to slow cook until tender.

I didn’t add any salt.  I thought the fish sauce and soy sauce gave the dish a wonderful salty flavor complimented by the honey.  Because I think the meat is well salted and flavored I would suggest serving over a savory or plain jasmine rice.

Sliced meat with honey 019

Murammala bi kam’a (Beef Stew with Truffles and Garbanzos)

So occasionally I find odd bits of meat pieces in the freezer.  I know what they are and about when I put them there (no freezer burn please!) I just can’t remember what the ORIGINAL use was for, so I improvise.  This improvisation came about during a “I want MEAT now!!!” phase and a few things from the cupboard.  I’m rather please with how tasty it all turned out.

Murammala bi kam’a

(Beef Stew with Truffles and Garbanzos)

Meat and onions 2 005

Translation:

Cut meat into small pieces, wash it, and put it in a pot. Add soaked chickpeas, zayt maghsul (washed olive oil), galangal and cassia, a piece of each, chopped onion, chopped fresh herbs, and a little salt.

Pour some water into the pot and let it boil, skimming the froth as it comes up. Add black truffles, chopped into small pieces like meat. If truffles are not available, substitute with carrots or gourd, also chopped like the meat. Add them to the pot along with black pepper, coriander seeds,…cumin, and a small amount of cheese and ground cassia.

Garnish the top with many poached eggs, and allow the stew to settle and rest for a while. Ladle and serve the dish, god willing. (Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq, pp. 283)

Ingredients:

3 lbs. Stew meat

2 Tbsp. ea. Parsley and basil (dry if fresh is not available)

1 pinch saffron

1 Onion

1/2 C. Olive oil

1 16 oz. can garbanzo beans drained

1 Tsp ea. Ground cinnamon, black pepper, coriander, cumin, galingale

2 Tsp sea salt

3 Bruised bay leaves (fresh) or 3 whole dried to be pulled out at the end of cooking

2 C. Carrots

2 C. Water

3 or 4 eggs raw eggs or more

Cheese to taste (feta or manchago)

Redaction:

So the meat I used here is a bit of brisket with the fat trimmed.  This is a tough chewy chunk of meat so needs a lot of slooooow cooking.  A crock pot is really good for this or low and slow in the oven.

I cut up the beef (note the chunky quality?) This will cook down.

Chopped meatand onions (separately) then gathered all the herbs

Onion and herbs 001carrots and garbanzo beans.

GarbanzoI was being a little lazy with the carrots (no truffles were on hand) and used baby carrots unchopped.  If you have regular carrots and want to chop them by all means please do!

I poured roughly one half cup of olive oil into a crock pot then added the meat.   Once the meat was in the crock pot, I added onions, spices, carrots and salt.

Onion and herbs 009

I also added about two cups of water and the garbanzo beans.

Garbano over meat Give this a stir so that everything is well mixed and the water just a little under the ingredients.

start of stewBefore serving crack 3 or 4 eggs over the stew to poach.

Meat and onions 2 001If you don’t feel comfortable with poaching the eggs in the broth, poach them prior then serve a poached egg per bowl over the stew.

Meat and onions 2 002This is what the poached egg in beef stew looks like.  I was a little hesitant myself to do this as I was like “Really?!  Poached eggs in a beef stew?  Were they mad?!”  Turns out this adds a really nice creamy flavor to the stew.  I recommend this part highly!

When scooping out your stew make sure to get at least one poached egg to be broken in the bowl.  Add cheese and server forth!

Meat and onions 2 005

Lese Fryes (Eggs with Cheese)

So I have a bit of down time and at least one more egg dish to go.  I saved this one for last as it is THE best egg/cheese pastry dish yet.  I have yet to encounter anything better.  Forget mini quiches for parties…take the extra time and make these instead.  You’re guests will never leave.  Err…never mind that may not be a good thing.

Lese Fryes (Eggs with cheese)

Egg Pastry

Translation:

Take soft cheese, and pare it clean, and grind it in a mortar small, and draw yolks and white of eggs through a strainer, and cast thereto, and grind them together then cast thereto sugar, butter and salt, put all together in a coffin of fair paste, and let bake enough, and then serve it forth. (Renfrow, pp. 46)

Ingredients:

1 wedge Brie cut into pieces

3 eggs beaten

1 tsp sugar

1 stick of butter cut into pieces

1 tsp of salt

 

Butter Crust

 

Redaction:

I gathered all the ingredients together,

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cutting the brie (including the rind) into chunks. Next I cracked three eggs into a bowl beating them well. (They screamed a lot!). Next I added sugar, butter and a bit of salt to the eggs.

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I cut rounds from the pastry, placing them into a really cool copper/tin dish. The dough was pressed down to form small hand held pastry shells.

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Pieces of cheese were put into each shell until all the pastry was filled. I poured the egg mixture over the cheese and cooked till the egg mixture was firm and the crust golden.

June 2015 043This is the finished tartlet.  OMG…fingers were almost lost as we tasted these for cooking guild.

Egg Pastry