Roman Cookery

The section is dedicated to historical Roman cooking.

Since I’ve been on a Roman kick for a bit and have a few more recipes to post, I’m going to do a little some thing different today.  Most of the recipes I post are about food.  Today’s is a Roman type of wine.  Now Romans liked their wine the way Westerners like their beers so to say they brewed or made their wines a little unusually is an understatement.  Luckily this is a 3 minute Roman treat.  Nothing to intricate!  Like most things Roman, anything goes including what they did to their wines.

White Wine with Honey

 Translation:

Pliney and Columella disagreed on what types of wine should be mixed with honey.  Columella preferred adding honey during the process while Pliny thought only dry wine should mixed with honey as ‘sweet wine does not mix well with honey’ (Plin. N.H. XXII-24-53) (Giacosa/Faas, pp. 117-120)

Ingredients:

Bottle dry white wine

½ C honey

Redaction:

This recipe was fairly straight forward.

I took a bottle of white wine

and removed ½ C then replaced the missing wine with honey.

A cork was placed in the bottle and then the bottle was turned up side down a few times to help the honey mix into the wine.

I tried making this with red wine; however the honey taste was lost in the full flavor of the red wine (merlot) used.  It just wasn’t as good.  Now a sweet red might work better but I’m fairly happy with the white.

This taste rather like a modern day mead, with a slight chemical taste, from the modern wine and very nice sweet honey taste.

This is good.  I really like the flavoring, Mind you I prefer a real mead but in a pinch, white wine with honey is very good!

 

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It’s that time again…time to pull out the mixing bowl and make magic!  This time we’re doing cheesey bread, in a period style no less.  I like cheese and I really like bread, so with a Roman recipe we’re going to combine the two.

Cybus

Translation:

Cubed shape bread, with aniseed, fresh sheep’s cheese and olive oil (Ath. 114a/Faas, pp. 192)

Ingredients:

4 C Somolina Flour (wheat though a little semolina and/or traces of rye and barley would not be out of place…see note on flour)

1 C White flour

2 C Sheep’s milk cheese (feta or machango depending on taste desired)

3 Tbs olive oil + 1 tsp for coating of dough

1 tsp salt               1 tsp honey              1 ½  C water              1 tsp yeast

1 tsp Anise seeds (optional)

Redaction:

The Roman recipe is fairly sparse so I had to do a little experimenting and researching.  The above ingredient list is from playing around with various flours and flavors!

*A note about period flour.  Period flour was not just one type of flour or another.  Depending on where the flour was in the que of grinding depended on how much semolina, barley or rye might be found in the wheat.  Not matter where in the que though or how much of wheat flour was being ground, traces of other flours would show up.  This is because period grist mills did not clean between grinds.  Unlike today’s flour there was always a little extra to the wheat flour.

 

This is 4 cups of Semolina flour.  This is not what most people associate with bread, mostly… The texture is grainy and not silky smooth like a regular white or wheat flour is.  The bread texture produced from Semolina flour is just a little on the grainy side, more rough in texture.  Good but different and that is what we want to explore!

First step is to get the yeast going or at least introducing the yeast to the flour.  Mix the yeast, water and honey together to get the yeast bubbling and growing or if you like just put the yeast in the flour and mix well.  This is the point to add in the anise seeds if you wanted to.

Here I have both types of flours and the yeast ready to go.  Everything is well mixed together so that we can add in the cheese.  Now for this recipe, I use a good quality sheep milk cheese.  You can use a dry feta or even Parmesan.  Don’t limit yourself to just one type of cheese or even one cheese if you want to play around with flavors!

Mix the cheese and flour together and make a small well in the center of the mixture. Next the oil.

To this add in salt, honey and a bit of water…not to much water though.  We want a nice dough not a wet batter.

Next we’re going to make lumpy cheese dough!  Mix everything together.  Here is the first moment or two of stirring together.

Looks pretty rough doesn’t it?  Keep kneading!  The dough does get prettier.

This is much more uniform now.  I knead the dough till the texture is smooth and elastic.  Then I set aside to rise.

I’ve lightly covered the bread with olive oil.  For some reason this seems to help the rising and the flavor gets a little added boost.  The bowl is covered with a cloth and set in a warm(ish) spot to rise for roughly an hour to an hour and a half.

Once the dough has risen, I punch it down and place the dough on a metal sheet for the 2nd rise, usually about 30-45 minutes.  Till it’s nice and fluffy!

The dough is now ready for baking.

As a bread loaf, I have to admit this is pretty ugly looking.  Subsequent tries on this has shown that forming a round ball that are smooth and non lumpy form mostly round(ish) and smooth(ish) cheese bread rounds.

Here is a picture of the interior.  I’d offer you a taste but the bread is gone now…and it was very very tasty!  By the way this bread goes excellently with the Roman garlic herb cheese recipe.  They compliment each other very very well!

 

 

 

Sweet Patinae

 

Translation:

An inverted patina: Roast pine nuts and chopped walnuts and grind with honey, pepper, and garum; milk and eggs and a bit of oil

(Giacosa, pg 161)

Turnover as a sweet.  Toast pine-kernels and broken and clean nuts, and pound with honey, pepper, liquamen, milk, eggs a little wine and oil  (cook in a shallow pan) and turn out on to a round serving-dish.

(Flower, pp. 103)

Nut custard turn-over (patina versatilis vice dulcis)

Pignolia nuts, chopped or broken nuts are cleaned and roasted and crushed with honey.  Mix in pepper, broth, milk, eggs, , a little honey and oil.  (Thicken slowly on fire with out boiling, fill in moulds, take care that the nuts do not sink to the bottom, bake in hot water bath when cold unmould.)

(Apicus, pp. 103/#143)

 

Ingredients:

1 cup pine nuts 1 cup walnuts               1 cup almonds

5 Tbs honey                 ½ tsp ground pepper    1 tsp garum

3 eggs                          1 cup half and half         1 Tbs oil

½ cup wine

Giacosa, pg. 161.

 

Redaction:

First I gathered the ingredients together.

The nuts were probably roasted either on a clay sheet in an oven or on top of an oven in a frying pan.  (Flower/Giacosa) I roasted these nuts in the oven on a cookies sheet.

Here are the roasted walnuts and unskinned roasted hazelnuts.

And the roasted pine nuts.  Pine nuts roast a lot faster then walnuts or hazelnuts, so keep an close aye on them!  Pine nuts are waaaay to expensive and tasty to waste burning.

Here the roasted nuts are all gathered in individual bowls.

When they were done, I ground them in a small electric grinder,

though I am sure that if labor and time were not an issue, kitchen slaves could have ground the nuts into as fine a paste. Since I had no kitchen slaves, I settled for an automatic grinding this time.  I have found that grinding by hand (or at least my hand) that using a mortar and pestal that the nuts do not come out fine.  I believe this is due to user error and not the grinding potential of the mortar and pestle.

Once the nuts were roughly ground I mixed them with the honey, pepper, and red wine.

The eggs were combined with the half and half and oil.  Once the egg mixture was well blended, I combined this with the nut and spice mixture.  This mixture was poured into a casserole and bake for around 20 minutes at 350.

I added a sweet red wine on hand, not having a white wine available.  The commercially available white wines would have been a good addition; however I find I do not like the chemical tastes and with several gallons of home made meads etc on hand I decided to deplete my stock of home made non chemical wines.

The half and half used is from a cow.  There was an option to use goat milk which would have been just as likely as milk from a cow to have been used, possibly more so.  The option to use regular milk, I do not believe would have been as good a choice as the milk would not have had full body of cream as straight from the animal milk would have.  The addition of half and half gives this dish a very rich and creamy taste. Peppercorns were ground in a mortar and pestle.  The eggs used were organic farm raised, closer to period; however regular store bought eggs would have worked with the same results.

The finished desert.  Very tasty and very firm!  This is not nearly as soupy as the pear patinae (probably due to the fruit being softer and gushier)  sort of a firm crunchy oatmeal but much tastier!

 

When I first started redacting, I did a common mistake in that I assumed that Herkotz was the author of the book A Taste of Ancient Rome.  This is my mistake.  The author is Ilaria G. Giacosa, while Anne Herkotz is the translator.  If you see my redactions with the name of Herkotz as the author…please disregard this and know that the correct research reference is Giacosa.

I have tried to correct this error in all subsequent Roman redactions though I have missed some corrections in my older posts.  I do not wish lead any one astray who wants to use my redactions and research for their own cooking needs.

When I was doing the Roman research paper for Steppes Artisan (and Laural’s Prize Tourny), I was reading about the different breads eaten at banquets.  One of the odder ones struck me as strange but yummy.  I mean really, who puts cumin in bread…with honey even?!  I knew the Romans were a little strange in their eating, but seriously?  So of course I HAD to try this.  Oh my…I must say, either my palate has changed for all time or this bread is really really really good!  You have to try this at least once.

Panis Alexandrinus

Cumin and Honey Bread

Translation:

A popular and frequently mentioned bread.  We do not know exactly how it was made except that it contained Egyptian cumin, hence the name and probably honey. (Faas, pp. 191)

Ingredients:

4 C Flour

2 Tbs cumin (Egyption if possible)

1 tsp salt

1 C Honey + 1 tsp for yeast

1 C water

1 tsp yeast.

 

Redaction:

First mix 1 tsp of honey with yeast and water in a small cup or bowl allow to sit for 5 minutes.

Here is the honey and the 2 tbs of cumin, the milky looking cup contains the honey, water and yeast foaming just a little.

Next, in a larger bowl, mix the flour salt and cumin together.

(In this picture I had added the yeast originally for the first batch…the honey makes this bread very dense so the yeast needs a little help, so I suggest doing yeast in water and honey to give the yeast a little extra head start…)

Next add in the honey and yeast mixture.

*A note about period flour.  Period flour was not just one type of flour or another.  Depending on where the flour was in the que of grinding depended on how much semolina, barley or rye might be found in the wheat.  Not matter where in the que though or how much of wheat flour was being ground, traces of other flours would show up.  This is because period grist mills did not clean between grinds.  Unlike today’s flour there was always a little extra to the wheat flour.

Once the dough has been kneaded for 5 minutes (for a better crumb)

coat with oil, place in a bowl and allow to sit for 90 minutes in a warm spot, covered with a towel.  After 90 minutes, remove the dough from the bowl and do a quick kneed, 30-60 seconds.

Place the dough in a greased square pan

Here is the original cumin and honey loaf.

And now the interior of this loaf.

This is very very dense.  The second baking, with the yeast given a bit of a head start, also produced a dense heave loaf but less dense then the first.

I am still playing around with this recipe myself.  I find the taste incredible but the crumb still much denser then I am use to modernly.  The bread may just be a dense type of bread and may never achieve a fluffy crumb but I keep trying for fun!

 

I like carrots.  Very very tasty veggies!  I found this recipe and now I really LIKE carrots.  This recipe is one of the best for making carrots crunchy tasty or roasted chewy tasty.  Cook’s choice!

I did do this recipe as a combination of Roman carrots with Saracen lamb.  Not precisely in the recipe books but hey, it’s Roman and anything goes for a Roman cook!

Roman Parsnips and or Carrots

Quick addendum:

Apicus equated parsnip with the carrot with the recipes being interchangeable with out detriment to either vegetables taste. (Faas, pp. 214)

Translation:

Cut the boiled carrots into small pieces and boil in a cumin sauce with a little oil.

(Faas, pp. 214).

Cumin, salt, old wine, and oil.  Fi you wish add pepper, lovage, mint, rue and coriander. (Ap.118/Faas, pp. 215)

Ingredients:

24 oz carrots (I use baby carrots)

Water to cover

1 tsp salt

Sauce:

1 tsp each of  salt, ground pepper, ground cumin, ground coriander and whole thyme.

1/3 c olive oil

½ C wine (red or white depending on taste) if desired.

Redaction:

I have added a slightly different twist to this due to my own palate.  Boiling carrots till they are just cooked leaves, even with spices, a slightly bland taste.  I have altered this as to boil then roast then carrots for a richer taste.  This is my own preference.  Should roasting not be desired stop at the boiling of carrots and mixing in of the sauce.

First boil the carrots until just slightly tender.  Usually about 10 minutes.  The carrots are then drained.  While the carrots are draining I mix all the spices and oil together.

This is the oil and spices on the carrots.  I forgot to take a picture of the carrots/spice mix.  It looks better once everything is mixed together!

I do a taste test to make sure no one ingredient is over powering the others.  The fresher the spice the stronger the flavor, so if one spice is not as strong as it should be, add in more starting at ¼ a tsp at a time.

I usually do not add wine.  In my opinion this makes the sauce a little to soupy.  I want my spice mix to stick to the carrots.

Next I place the carrots in a backing dish, mix the spices over and roast for 30-45 minutes.  This gives the carrots a deep rich roasting flavor that will quickly endear them to any palate.

I have also done this dish where I added foreleg of lamb with a Middle Eastern rub spice mix called Rogan Josh.  This mix contains Paprika, garlic, ginger, coriander, cumin, turmeric, cayenne, Saigon cinnamon, cardamon, cloves and spices. (From the Savory Spice Shop)

I decided on foreleg as a whole leg was to big but a foreleg was just enough meat for one person.

When the meat was cooked over the carrots there is this delectable rich meatiness as well as the wonderful taste of spicy carrot goodness.

This is an awesomely delectable dish that you can not go wrong on!  The foreleg per person may be to much to do for a feast but for 2-4 people they are just right over Roman Carrots!

 

 

Cucumbers are a tasty little treat fresh from the garden.  Like many people, I find that fresh home grown cucumbers beat out those store bought.  Unfortunately, in the heart of Ansteorra at this time, fresh cucumbers are just about impossible to come across in most home gardens so store bought it was!

Translation:

When Scraped and cooked in olive oil, vinegar and honey, cucumbers are with out doubt more delicious.

Mark, pp. 135

Ingredients:

Cucumbers                   ¼ C honey

½ C vinegar               1/2 C olive oil

Redaction:

I did a little alteration, in the best of Roman way, with this recipe.  I chose not to cook the cucumbers  as I really did not want to deal with squished cucumber goo.  So, with that in mind, I chose to submerge sliced cucumbers in this wonderful little mixture and let them braise for 2-5 days at a time.

First gather all your ingredients.

Peel the cucumbers.

Now slice them into spears.

Now here you can keep the slices long or cut into half.

Mix the oil, honey and vinegar together.

Place your sliced cucumbers into the mixture.

Now this picture is only for one cucumber.  I sliced up five and the bowl was not big enough so I had to increase the mixture to accommodate all the cucumbers slices.

Looks a bit like a forest!  But a very tasty forest at that.  This is a wonderful light savory sweet treat to be eaten with bread, cheese and figs.  Give this one a try during those hot summer months or on a cool winter evening when you need a bit of green!

 

This dish is more like an appetizer or an after dinner treat.  A little sweet with a bit of savory.  Simple elegant and easy on the tongue, not to heavy.

Caseus cum Recenti Fico

(Cheese with Figs)

Translation:

A recent idea has been to eat a fresh fig instead of salt with cheese.  Pliny Natural History. (Grant, pp. 79)

Ingredients:

Fig

Cheese such as Feta or a good sheep milk cheese (Has a very mild nutty slightly salty flavor)

Optional:  Honey

Redaction:

Fresh figs.

Cut in half.

Place a bit of cheese on the fig.  Consume.

I like mine a bit sweet so I added a touch of honey.  I almost consumed a full pound but restrained myself.  A few of these and both the sweet and savory tooth is satisfied!

As for the type of cheese I will suggest a good goat or sheep milk cheese.  Some thing light and or creamy.  Or even a creamy nutty flavor.  I used Feta for this redaction though a good sheep milk cheese such as Petit Basque. will work very well.

 

I was in the mood to try a little bit of Roman again.  I haven’t had a good wine and pork dish for a bit so turned to my trusted Roman books for inspiration.  And look!  We have a yummy tasty pork dish ready for the first days of spring and those first few blushing bulbs of fennel, not to mention a way to use all those bits of left over red wine from our dark cold Ansteorran winters.

Pork in a red wine and fennel sauce

Krea Tareikhera

Translation:

Cured meat or slices of ham, similarly raw meat: first the cured meat is boiled a little just to take away its saltiness.  Then put tall these ingredients into a pan: four parts of wine, two parts of grape syrup, one part of wine vinegar, dry coriander, thyme, dill, fennel.  Fry after putting everything in together at the start, then boil.  Half-way through the cooking some people add honey and ground cumin, others pepper, and after putting the sauce into a warmed pt they add little pieces of hot loin and bread. (Heidelberg papyrus)

(Grant, pp. 124-125)

Ingredients:

2lbs of cured ham or raw pork

1 pint red wine

½ cup grape syrup or Sapa

¼ cup red wine vinegar

1 tsp dry coriander

1 tsp thyme

1 tsp dill

¼ C fennel (roughly ½ a fennel bulb)

Optional:

1 tsp cumin

1 Tbs honey

1 tsp pepper

¼ C bread crumbs or 1 slice of bread

Redaction:

Gather together all your ingredients.

If using cured meat, boil for about 3 minutes till the saltiness is gone and drain.  If using fresh, cut into bite sized pieces.

Combine all the first round of ingredients into a pot.  Here I did things slightly different.  I used fresh thyme and dill from my garden roughly chopped.

Instead of using grape syrup or Sapa, I used port.  I like sweet wine so had some on hand.  I used balsamic vinegar as my vinegar, again as it was on hand.

I combined the wines and vinegar together, then all the spices.

This is the cummin added.

Here the thyme, fennel and dill are being added.

Stir everything together.

Add the pork and mix well.

At this point I put the lid on to the clay pot and placed in the oven for about an hour at 350.

This picture does not do the dish justice.  Once the pork is cooked pull it out of the clay pot and into a bowl.

If I had boiled the meat and sauce together in a pot, the remaining liquid would have thickened up and I would have then removed the meat cubes and used the sauce on the side.  What I wanted was slow cooked pork in wine and spice, with out a sauce.

So after removing the liquid from the clay pot, I took the remaining sauce which had not reduced much at all an, and placed into a regular cooking pot.

You want to boil this till the sauce has reduced by about half, forming a nice thick red wine and fennel sauce.  I can’t show you this as I left my pot boiling and ended up with a sticky burnt sauce.  I was very sad at this.  The pork was excellent with out the sauce but I’m sure the sauce would have added a sweet tangy tastiness.

So, if you want a thick sauce on the side you can cook everything together then boil the remaining liquid into a sauce or just boil everything together and let the sauce reduce that way.  Roman cooking lets you experiment with many different options and ways.  Do not think that just one way is the only way!

Zomos

Butter Beans in Herb Sauce

Translation:

Put wheat groats, coriander, leeks, onion, dill, basil and a little aniseed into a mortar.  Boil on the stove and moisten with water, wine, garum and wine vinegar all mixed together.  When it has boiled and you are about to take it off the heat, sprinkle on some ground pepper.  Some people make it slightly sharp with wine vinegar by pouring over a little, and then remove it from the fire; but others boil everything when the wine vinegar has been added and by adding green herbs they make it ready to serve.

(Grant, pp. 131 from the Heidelberg Papyrus)

Ingredients:

¼ C whole barley or wheat groats                     1 leek   1 onion

1 tsp dried dill, basil, coriander              1 pinch aniseed

½ C water                    1 C wine                      1 tsp garum

¼ tsp ground pepper    1 tsp parsley

Redaction:

The day before, place the 1 C dried butter beans in a pot of water and let sit over night.

cooked beans

Before making the sauce the next day, boil the beans for 30 minutes or until soft.  Drain and set to the side.

With the translation I did a little ad-libbing this into 2 parts.  One sauce is a dry sauce with the ingredients roughly chopped, the other is a cooked with the ingredients ground into a more liquid type of sauce

Slice the onions and leeks into small pieces.  (Optional part is to fry the onions and leeks till soft before adding to the boiling pot.)

Zomos spices 2

Mix the dill, basil, coriander and aniseed in a mortar.

sauted spices

Take the water, wine, garum and wine vinegar and mix in a pot, then bring to a boil.   Add the onions, leeks and barley.

sauted 2

Boil the mixture till the barley (or wheat groats are soft).  Sprinkle with parsley and serve over butter beans.

over beans 1

This is what the first redaction looked like when the onions were coarsely chopped and barely grains were added whole.

The 2nd redaction I ground the onions and spices and cooked in the wine but did not reduce the sauce until almost dry.

sauce over beans2

Both sauces are very tasty over the beans, yet the look is very different.  This may be more of an aesthetic for the cook on how to make the sauce!

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